共享唐英年窖藏珍釀?

佳士得Christie’s 將於周五、六舉行的(3月15及16日) 舉行2013年首場春季拍賣 ─「尋味之旅:唐英年窖藏珍釀」。此次拍賣為勃艮第專場,將推出共810件拍品,總估值超過港幣2900萬。

拍賣反應極佳,買家來自不同界別,藏品最貴一批6瓶的Romanée-Conti Grand Cru估價達100萬元外,另一瓶估價達70萬元的極佳年份1971年La Tâche Grand Cru,12瓶估價60萬元1978年羅曼尼‧康帝酒園Montrachet,以及一瓶估價達16萬元1.5公升裝的1978年亨瑞‧賈耶Cros Parantoux。但部份未在港發售的隱世葡萄酒,千元甚至數百元有交易,專家也形容這是亞洲藏家歷來最全面的勃艮第名酒拍賣。

佳士得中國區名酒部主管譚業明說,這是近期收到最多查詢的拍賣會,「唐生飲葡萄酒超過30年,當年80年代香港人多數只係飲干邑」。而唐英年表示︰「我深知如此多的藏品我用盡畢生也品嘗不完,所以我決定從窖藏中精選部分珍品與同好分享,為更多葡萄酒愛好者提供收藏渠道,一起享受此次品酒之旅。」

拋棄傾銷或是分享?

不知道你們知道關於Rudy Kurniawan (又名Dr. Conti) 的勃艮第和波爾多紅酒假冒(counterfeit) 故事與否? 我亦很著急,看看他因此億萬詐騙有什麼處罰!  其實近年來,香港已超過倫敦和紐約最富有的葡萄酒拍賣市場,它確實很大高機會也成為了流行的假冒傾銷地  (他们既想傾銷先前不经意地入手的假葡萄酒,又或怕葡萄酒市场上假酒泛滥令价格暴跌)。

Laurent Ponsot近日稱,1980年之前的勃艮第葡萄酒在現時拍賣會上售出的, 80%都是假。在難以證明陳年葡萄酒之真實性, 類似這樣的拍賣,它是佳釀收藏品的拋棄傾銷(dumping) 或是分享 (sharing) 嗎?

佳士得將於此次拍賣中首次使用「Prooftag Bubble Seal™」標籤。經過嚴謹的檢驗和鑑證後,佳士得專家在每瓶名釀瓶身上貼上「Bubble Seal™」標籤,藏家可通過它追蹤及確認每一瓶佳釀的來源,以證明它來自唐英年私人窖藏。但想深一層, 這並不能100%證明它是酒廠原瓶啊。

拍賣後, 你將開一瓶什麼來慶祝呢?如果我有其中的一瓶1962年La Tâche Jeroboam,亦或是1947年Cheval Blanc的話?一起喝好嗎?

買或賣? 這是一個大問題,影響所有葡萄酒愛好者。如果你有類似想法,你也可以在這裡分享您的想法啊。

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DOMAINE Ponsot的老闆近日稱,1980年之前的勃艮第葡萄酒在現時拍賣會上售出的, 80%都是假。
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Rudy Kurniawan

1971 La Tâche Tasting note from Allen Meadows :

(“This vintage produced the highest sugars I have ever seen; the ’71 is a very powerful wine though not necessarily the best balanced. I particularly like the combination of power and finesse and it’s ready now” – Aubert de Villaine; Meadows: 1971 produced a great many extremely rich and ripe wines of excellent concentration because there was so much millerandage| or very small berries that deliver a very high proportion of dry extract relative to the amount of juice. The crop in general was very small and the Domaine began harvesting on September 27. There was a good deal of hail thoughinterestingly| the La Tâche seems to show almost no effect whereas the Romanée-Conti is clearly marked by it.). Compared to two prior bottles tasted in the last 12 months| this was positively explosive and delivered everything one would reasonably expect and more from a great| fully mature Burgundy. Classic and very ripe mature burg fruit intermingles with a wonderful array of spices| especially anise and soy all framed by a touch of caramel. The flavors are extremely rich| sweet and wonderfully concentrated with a deep| very sweet essence of pinot finish that still retains glimpses of its former power. The tannins are fully resolved and the finish is nothing but pure silk and velvet. Prior bottles have been in the 92 to 94 point range. Yet another recent bottle was not quite as good as very best that I have had but it wasn’t far off. Overall though| while there is some bottle variation| well-stored bottles are consistently marvelous.
Allen Meadows – April 2011
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