Jazz It Up, Paris

Dragging my rimowa hand carry (I tried hard to go light) from Gare du Nord , I checked into a wrong hotel in Saint Michel on the wrong date, forgotten to print my map out while the french hotel receptionist are so “carefree” that they didn’t even bother to help… A look at my watch, it’s already 11pm and I somehow just missed my jazz visit at Au Clairon des Chasseurs up on Montmarte on this tuesday night…

“Nightmare, a nightmare?”In cold sweat feeling dazed and confuse, I sat up and felt unbelievably relieved, “pew… I didn’t missed my Jazz session! yeah!”

For some funny yet cute reasons, I’ve been 24/7 few days in a roll planning ahead of my 8-days Euro trip. (Here is the stops: 1 night London, 1 night Brugge, 4 nights Paris) As a stubborn persisting one(Dr. said I am anal retentive…I wonder what’s that about..)  like I always been, I’ve been trying to compare hotels, eateries, train schedules/price, ended up can’t make up my mind booking anything…that’s where my surreal stress surfaced into nightmare.

street jazz on bridge in Paris
street jazz on bridge in Paris

It’s indeed a pain in ass planning ahead which is never my habit but I am quite happy to do it as I am going with someone together this time and would love to plan ahead properly with such a short time stay.   Despite I had been living in Paris for almost a year, I hardly go out for Jazz bars, but indulge in cafe, read and smoke.   This time, I’d love to make it into a Jazz bars hopping trip, which is quite satifying even just by planning it.  Here is a list I would love to share with you my pick of club/bars am going besides the Jam session one can’t miss at Le Duc des Lombards:

Jam session on every Friday after midnight at Le Duc des Lombards
Jam session on every Friday after midnight at Le Duc des Lombards
Franc Pinot1, quai BourbonIle Saint Louis75004 ParisMétro: Pont MarieTel: 01-4633-6064E-mail: info@franc-pinot.com

Entrance: 10 to 15 €

One of the most atmospheric jazz clubs in Paris. Listening to live music with natural acoustics of the old vaulted stone cellars on the Ile St Louis in the heart of Paris is a ‘must’ if you’re a fan of swing and bebop. The bar is open from 7 pm and concerts start from 7 pm or 9 pm depending on the program. Concert prices vary from 10 to 15 euros depending on the artists
Slow Club130, rue de Rivoli75001 ParisMétro: Châtelet & Pont-NeufTel: 01-4233-8430Entrance: 13 € In a cellar that used to be a banana-ripening warehouse. An old favorite of Miles Davis. Big Band, Dixieland, and rock’n roll.  Expect dancing and a crowd in their 30s. Weekday cover 10 euros, students 9 euros. Weekend cover from 13 euros. Drinks from 4 euros. Open Tuesday-Thursday 10pm-3am. Friday-Saturday 10pm-4am.http://www.parisbestlodge.com/jazz2.htm
Caveau de La Huchette5, rue de La Huchette75005 ParisMétro : Saint-MichelTel :01-4326-6505E-mail: huchette@aol.comURL: http://www.caveaudelahuchette.fr/index2.htmlEntrance: 10 € This club is one of the oldest in Paris originating in 1946. Both Lionel Hampton and Sidney Bechet appeared here after World War II and the intimate wine cellar atmosphere of the club is still vibrant. You buy a ticket for ten Euros, descend a stone staircase, and sit around a small room facing the bandstand. You aren’t required to purchase a drink but the bar is quaint and beverages are not overpriced.http://www.allaboutjazz.com/articles/nycb0602.htm
Caveau de la Huchette
Caveau de la Huchette
Caveau des Oubliettes52, rue Galande75005 ParisMétro: Maubert ou Saint-MichelTel: 01-4634-2309URL: http://www.caveaudesoubliettes.com/Entrance: Free

Drinks: from 5 €

Music: 22h30-01:00 every night

“Un club de jazz insolite Au coeur du quartier de Saint-Michel, le Caveau des Oubliettes n’est pas un club de jazz comme les autres. Avec ses murs en pierre et ses poutres apparentes, sa véritable guillotine datant de 1793 et son gazon, ce pub est une véritable machine à remonter le temps. Ce bar organise des jazz session au sous-sol dans une cave voûtée du XIIème siècle et des concerts le week-end. Vous pouvez même visiter des oubliettes du Moyen-âge.”“An unusual jazz club in the heart of the Saint-Michel, the Cave of Oblivionis not a jazz club like the others. With its stone walls and exposed beams,its true guillotine from 1793 and his turf this pub is a real machine back in time. this bar holds jazz session in the basement in a vaulted cellar of the twelfth century and concerts on weekends. You can even visit thedungeons of the Middle Ages. ”
Le Café Laurent33, rue Dauphine75006 ParisMétro: OdéonTel: 01-4329-0333E-mail: cafelaurent@hoteldaubusson.comURL: http://www.cafe-laurent.com/

Entrance: Libre

Drinks: > 10 €

Music: Christen Brenner Trio,

jeudi-samedi, Horaires de l’apéritif
de 18h30 à 20h Piano solo

Horaires des concerts du soir
de 21h00 à Minuit

Café Laurent features the Christian Brenner Trio who serve up some very competent & listenable (if not too adventurous) jazz Thursdays to Saturdays. However, the evening I attended in July 2007, the group was very much a duo with Mr. Brenner on piano & a fine bassist who was never introduced. Guest performers appear from time to time & this particular evening an excellent pianist, whose name I didn’t catch unfortunately, took the stage & played some remarkable original compositions.The café itself, although rather small, lacks intimacy. It is too well lit & the stage could be more effectively located. The staff is very friendly, however, giving the place a bit of a neighbourhood feel. Entry is free, although your first drink will cost you 10 euros minimum.
Au Clairon des Chasseurs3, Place du TertreMontmartreMétro: AnversTel : 01 42 62 40 08URL: http://www.le-clairon-des-chasseurs.com/Entrance: Free, one drink minimum

Music: every night 21h – 02h

A Paris… Comme commença si souvent Francis Lemarque, il y a la tour Eiffel, les Grands Boulevards, l’arc de Triomphe et Montmartre. Et à Montmartre, il y a le Sacré Cœur, qu’on aperçoit de partout quand on arrive. Et au pied du Sacré Cœur, presque à l’ombre même de ses grandes formes blanches, il y a une place, toute petite et très célèbre : la place du Tertre. Le plus facile pour y accéder c’est de prendre le funiculaire d’en bas ! Et place du Tertre, il y a le « Clairon » comme en parlent les habitués.
Le Tennessee Jazz Club12, Rue André Mazet75006 ParisMetro: OdéonTel: 01-4354-3610Entrance: 5 € A particularly inviting … [jazz club] is Le Tennessee Jazz Club, nestled at the end of rue Mazet near metro Odéon. This unassuming bar offers one of the most convivial atmospheres for taking in a Saturday night show. Order a cocktail from their respectable selection and head down the short flight of stairs to the lower level. No matter where you sit, you’ll have a great view in this small, cellar-turned-concert space. You’ll feel like you stopped by a friend’s basement to watch the locals play under strings of multicolored party lights and soft bulbs. Unlike larger venues, the Tennessee has a real neighborhood feeling that will make you forget you’re just a visitor. Concerts can range from Caribbean jazz featuring melodious steel drums to lively Manouche jazz. At just five euros a show, it’s worth it to take a chance and soak up some authentic Parisian rhythms.
Autour de Midi11, rue Lepic75018 ParisMétro: BlancheTel : 01-5579-1648E-mail: contact@autourdemidi.frURL: http://www.autourdemidi.fr/ Established in 2001, in the heart of Montmartre , “Autour de Midi”… et Minuit” offers two very distinct and complementary atmospheres : a traditional French restaurant on the main floor and a jazz club in a wonderfully cosy ‘cave voutée’ down below.

6 thoughts on “Jazz It Up, Paris

  1. I am coming to Paris 2-3-12 staying in the St. Germanin des Pres area and want to listen to some Jazz where should I go in that area for a night of jazz. I will be alone and do not speek french.

    1. Hi there Mollie, sorry for the late reply as I have been traveling around for a while. I would recommend Cafe Laurent near St. Germain Odeon and also Franc Pinot near Notre Dame on the Island. If you don’t mind travel a little off, Go Chatelet for Duc Des Lombard. Go for the free entry Jam Session on Friday/Sat starting from Midnight. You can see more Paris recommendation on http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.360760997267690.97514.122338304443295&type=1 or http://www.facebook.com/CarolForest as well! have fun in Paris!!!

  2. Hi Carol- I hope you are well.
    I’ll be in Paris for a few days and want to see a good Jazz club, on a Monday night. Any suggestions where we can go with a relaxed, no-dress code, low-mid Euros vibe?


    1. Hi Mitchell, you can visit Duc Des Lombard in Chatelet for the free entry Jam Session on Friday/Sat starting from Midnight. It’s definitely one of the best Jazz club in Paris. drinks cost around 7-10 euro. for monday if you can afford around 20euro they have great Jazz player for concert too. Go Cafe Laurent if you around Odeon/St. Germain area. usually they play from 7 or 9. you can also head to nearby St. Michel for some low-mid causal vibe jazz room. you can check my post and also http://tinyurl.com/845lwbr.

    1. Dear Alex, sorry for the late reply. I have never been to New Morning, but heard it’s not only for Jazz now so do check out their schedule first. it’s a 30th years old club with great history, I would probably visit soon too! let me know how it goes . enjoy!

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